Day 6 – Modernist Cooking Class and La Taverna del Clinic

We returned to La Boqueria to its demo kitchen on Day 6 of the Barcelona trip with Portland Food Adventures. We enjoyed a 6-hour cooking class/demonstration with Chef Oliver Pena Luque. He is has been/is/will be chef at the restaurants in Albert Adria’s modernist cuisine empire. Past was 41 Degrees, now he is at Tickets Bar where we would dine the next day, and he should be opening the new Enigma in the future.

Chef Oliver Peña Luque - Wendy
Chef Oliver Peña Luque – Wendy

We were up close and personal for the demonstration. As a lab professional, I appreciate the chemistry as well as the artistry of modernist techniques. But beyond making beautiful and playful transformations, I love real flavors.

It was a class for any foodie to attend, and we went home with the full instructions, should I ever decide to turn my kitchen into a lab.

Chef Oliver Peña Luque
Chef Oliver Peña Luque makes a leaf.
Chef Oliver Peña Luque Makes a Pearl
Chef Oliver Peña Luque Makes a Pearl
Chef Oliver Peña Luque - Leaves and Pearl
Chef Oliver Peña Luque – Leaves and Pearl
Chef Oliver Peña Luque makes a tentacle
Chef Oliver Peña Luque makes a tentacle
Chef Oliver Peña Luque - tentacle
Chef Oliver Peña Luque – tentacle
Cocoon
Cocoon
Flowers in Droplet
Flowers in Droplet
Not Sushi
Not Sushi

Our dinner for the evening was at 8:30 pm at La Taverna del Clinic. The chef was another old friend of Jose Chesa, Antonio Simoes. This was a very impressive meal with many modernist twists, all packed with flavor.

 

La Taverna del Clinic - Jamon and soda bread
La Taverna del Clinic – Jamon and soda bread
La Taverna del Clinic - Potato bites
La Taverna del Clinic – Potato bites

This was one of my favorites.

La Taverna del Clinic - Mussels
La Taverna del Clinic – Mussels

Such big mussels you have!

La Taverna del Clinic - foie gras
La Taverna del Clinic – foie gras
La Taverna del Clinic - octopus bubbi
La Taverna del Clinic – octopus bubbi

That’s potato on top.

La Taverna del Clinic - Steak Tartar
La Taverna del Clinic – Steak Tartar
La Taverna del Clinic - Canelloni with duck, mushrooms and foie gras
La Taverna del Clinic – Cannelloni with duck, mushrooms and foie gras
La Taverna del Clinic = Bay scallops and chestnuts
La Taverna del Clinic = Bay scallops and chestnuts
La Taverna del Clinic - Rockfish and Hake sucret
La Taverna del Clinic – Rockfish and Hake sucret
La Taverna del Clinic - Lamb and Mushrooms
La Taverna del Clinic – Lamb and Mushrooms
La Taverna del Clinic - Chocolate 3 Ways
La Taverna del Clinic – Chocolate 3 Ways
PFA International Dinner in Barcelona
PFA International Dinner in Barcelona

It was a delicious day, I would have liked to join with the rest of the group who were going on for drinks and dancing, since we hadn’t walked much. But a cab was available and somehow I ended up in it with a couple of others and back to the hotel.

Next: Sagrada Familia and Tickets Bar for the Finale

Degusta Show – Day 5 of Barcelona with Portland Food Adventures

The only item on our itinerary for this day was entry to the Degusta culinary show. It was election day, with a successionist mandate at stake, and much of the city shut down.

Most of our group opted out of going to the show, only three of us went. Word had gotten out that you had to pay for anything you wanted to eat there (with just a few samples).  I was happy I went, although mostly for the beer and then walking up the hill to see the sights.

We toured the show, which had a many exhibits of fancy cakes and what it takes to make them. I don’t watch Cake Boss, so this wasn’t of much interest to me.

Fancy cake in competition at Degusta Show
Fancy cake in competition at Degusta Show

I do love me some ham, though, so I bought a bocadito of the top quality pata negra.

Jamon booth
Jamon booth

The food truck craze was being featured, just one more way Portland and Barcelona are similar, yet different. They had over 20 of them at the show.

Food Trucks at Degusta Show
Food Trucks at Degusta Show

But I was happiest about the Barcelona Beer Show. I’m not a fan of Spain’s Estrella beer, it’s too bland and unhopped for me. But I found brewers here who are happily making West Coast-style IPA. In fact, when I got a glass of the Further Westward IPA and said I liked it, they gave me a free bottle. As it is aggressively hopped and this is the last day of the show, I figured most people didn’t like it and they were happy to give a bottle to someone who did.

Beer Cat beers
Beer Cat beers

I stood in line for the free paella, the beer had enough alcohol content that I needed to cool my jets anyway.

Paella and Beer at Degusta Show
Paella and Beer at Degusta Show

Now I walked up Montjuic, past the Magic Fountains to the site of the 1929 World Expo. I sat to rest and actually took a little nap.

spain15 1361 spain15 1369Heading back towards my hotel, I passed by Tickets Bar, the Adria restaurant whose chef would give us a cooking class the next day and where we dine at the end of the week.

Then I walked Rick Steves’ Eixample walking tour, seeing the modernist buildings in daylight. It was very nice.

Casa Amatller and Casa Batilo
Casa Amatller and Casa Batilo

Next: Cooking Modernist with Tickets Chef Oliver Pena

Day 4 – Big Day for Barcelona – Pinoxto – Escribà – Tuset

This would prove to be an exhausting day for our Barcelona Portland Food Adventures group, starting with breakfast at 7 am at famed Pinoxto in La Boqueria. You may have seen this guy, Juan, featured in Rick Steves’ visit. He’s a classic.

Juan at Pinoxto in La Boqueria
Juan at Pinoxto in La Boqueria

Chef Jose Chesa, our food guide from Portland’s Ataula restaurant, ensured we enjoyed samples of their best seafood and tortillas. We ate in two shifts.

Chef Jose orders for us at Pinoxto in La Boqueria
Chef Jose orders for us at Pinoxto in La Boqueria

After breakfast and wandering the Boqueria, I followed Rick Steves’ walking guide and toured the Cathedral of Barcelona in more detail. I think this was also the day I visited the Picasso Museum (no photos allowed inside) and the El Born district, which has wonderful shops.

I had plenty of time to reach Xiringuito Escribà for our paella lunch on the beach, although once I was in the vicinity it wasn’t that easy to find the exact spot. This is the problem when you don’t have a data plan for your smartphone in Europe. Chris had provided a good map with our destinations circled, but I still logged some extra steps.

It was great to see the beach and a relief to find the restaurant right on time.

Barcelona Beach
Barcelona Beach
Xiringuito Escribà
Xiringuito Escribà

We were seated with open air access to the beach views and enjoyed a traditional paella lunch that was quite satisfying.

Xiringuito Escribà Lunch
Xiringuito Escribà Lunch
Xiringuito Escribà Lunch
Xiringuito Escribà Lunch
Xiringuito Escribà Calamari
Xiringuito Escribà Calamari
Xiringuito Escribà Mussels
Xiringuito Escribà Mussels
Xiringuito Escribà Fideo
Xiringuito Escribà Fideo
Xiringuito Escribà Black Paella
Xiringuito Escribà Black Paella
Xiringuito Escribà Seafood Paella
Xiringuito Escribà Seafood Paella
A little beach music
A little beach music

At this point of the day, a wise person would have taken a cab to our next destination, a demonstration/lecture by famed Chef Christian Escribà. But some of us weren’t that smart. We had a lot of calories to burn off, anyway. But the walk there gave some folks more blisters.

We didn’t really know what to expect of the “pastry workshop” listed for 4 pm. It turned out to be a tour of this modern-day Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory and a slideshow by the man himself, Christian Escribà. This was definitely the sort of access to culinary superstars that made this trip a true food adventure.

Escribà Ceiling of Sugar Glass Flowers
Escribà Ceiling of Sugar Glass Flowers
Escribà
Escribà
Christian Escribà - Modern Willy Wonka
Christian Escribà – Modern Willy Wonka

We learned about his innovations, including cake walls. I want a cake wall.

Christian Escribà - Modern Willy Wonka
Christian Escribà – Modern Willy Wonka

Escribà - in the chocolate factory
Escribà – in the chocolate factory
Escribà - in the chocolate factory
Escribà – in the chocolate factory

Can I have this cake wall for my next birthday?

Escribà - in the Willy Wonka zone
Escribà – Wendy in the Willy Wonka zone

We had a bonus dinner scheduled for 10:30 pm. Some of our group opted out, as it had already been a massive day. But I was happy that I went (which contributed to the 31,300 steps for the day).  On the way I saw a couple of the famed Gaudi-designed buildings.

Gaudi's Casa Batillo
Gaudi’s Casa Batillo
Gaudi's Casa Mila
Gaudi’s Casa Mila

The Tuset Restaurant‘s chef trained with Jose Chesa. I enjoyed the food very much, especially the peppery beef croquettes.

Tuset Chef and Jose Chesa
Tuset Chef and Jose Chesa
Tuset appetizer
Tuset appetizer
Tuset - tortilla de espana
Tuset – tortilla de espana
Tuset - tartar
Tuset – tartar
Tuset
Tuset
Tuset - peppery beef
Tuset – peppery beef
Tuset desserts
Tuset desserts

Next: Day 5 – Degusta Show – Spain has Microbrews and IPA!

Can Jubany – Day 3 of Barcelona with Portland Food Adventures

Our third day of the Barcelona international tour with Portland Food Adventures took us out into the countryside to the Michelin-starred restaurant where our guide Chef Jose Chesa (of Portland’s Ataula) worked before coming to the USA.

Can Jubany is a glorious example of slow food and not only locally-sourced but mostly grown right on the property. Chef Nandu Jubany is an international star of slow food and farm-to-table cuisine, with modernist touches.

We started our visit with a tour of the kitchen garden, farmhouse and chicken coops.  Jose translated as Chef Francesc Arumi described how they rotate the crops continuously to provide the ingredients for the dishes. It was very impressive. The restaurant itself is in a restored country house.

Garden at Can Jubany with Francesc Arumí
Garden at Can Jubany with Francesc Arumí
Can Jubany Greenhouse
Can Jubany Greenhouse
Can Jubany Chickens
Can Jubany Chickens
Can Jubany Black African Chickens
Can Jubany Black African Chickens
Can Jubany - Jose Chesa and Chef Francesc Arumí
Can Jubany – Jose Chesa and Chef Francesc Arumí

While I could have visited this marvelous place on my own, it was priceless to get a tour from an insider. We also got a tour through the kitchen to see our first appetizer assembled.

Can Jubany Kitchen
Can Jubany Kitchen

The dining areas of Can Jubany looked peaceful compared with the noisy industrial settings for most Portland restaurants. We had a separate room for our group with a tastefully set table.  Each course was paired with wine.

Rosanna, Chef Jose Chesa and Chris Angelus at Can Jubany
Rosanna, Chef Jose Chesa and Chris Angelus at Can Jubany
Can Jubany - Sausages and bacon cracker
Can Jubany – Sausages and bacon cracker
Can Jubany  Vegetables in "soil" with bleu cheese rocks
Can Jubany Vegetables in “soil” with bleu cheese rocks

These first two appetizers had definite modernist twists.

Can Jubany - pumpkin gnocchi in parmesan broth with bread
Can Jubany – pumpkin gnocchi in parmesan broth with bread

I love pumpkin gnocchi. The service was perfect, as you would expect at a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Can Jubany - foie gras with salad and fruit on cracker
Can Jubany – foie gras with salad and fruit on cracker

It seems we always had to have some foie gras.

Can Jubany - cod, green apple, honey, celery
Can Jubany – cod, green apple, honey, celery

This lovely caterpillar appears on the Can Jubany web site, too.

Can Jubany - Pork belly, mushroom, egg
Can Jubany – Pork belly, mushroom, egg

That’s what the chickens were up to out in the coop.

Can Jubany - Paella with sea cucumber
Can Jubany – Paella with sea cucumber

The Spanish classic dish, with unusual seafood.

Can Jubany - Hake with vinaigrette
Can Jubany – Hake with vinaigrette
Can Jubany - young lamb, potato puree, vegetables, mushroom
Can Jubany – young lamb, potato puree, vegetables, mushroom
Can Jubany - Cheese
Can Jubany – Cheese

And now we got a flood of desserts

Can Jubany - Dessert
Can Jubany – Dessert
Can Jubany - Dessert
Can Jubany – Dessert
Can Jubany - Dessert
Can Jubany – Dessert
Can Jubany - Dessert
Can Jubany – Dessert
Can Jubany - Dessert
Can Jubany – Dessert
Can Jubany - Chef Jose Chesa
Can Jubany – Chef Jose Chesa

Quote of the day from Jose, “Modern is good, but if you go too far you miss the point.”

Can Jubany - Wendy
Can Jubany – Wendy

I’m pretty happy still by the end of the meal.

Can Jubany - Box of Delights
Can Jubany – Box of Delights
Can Jubany - Candy
Can Jubany – Candy
Nandu Jubany - Jose Chesa - young man - Anna Orte
Nandu Jubany – Jose Chesa – son – Anna Orte

Anna says Nandu married her for her stomach size.

Wendy at Can Jubany
Wendy at Can Jubany

Many of us considered this day to be the highlight of the trip, it was wonderful.

But with the bus ride too and from, I got in almost no walking. I had to make up at least 30 minutes of exercise on the exercise bike in our hotel to make my Apple Watch meet that daily goal. But it was one of the few days in the past year I didn’t get 10,000 steps on my Fitbit.

This was good as some of our group had blisters from the walking the previous day. And we all far made up the missed steps the next day, in which I logged over 31,000 steps, as much as a half marathon.

Next: Big Big Day of Eating and Walking and meeting culinary superstar Christian Escribà

Tapas for Day 2 of Barcelona with Portland Food Adventures

I didn’t rouse early for Day 2 of our Portland Food Adventure Barcelona tour. The plan was for us to break into two groups to have a tapas lunch at Quimet & Quimet at noon or at 1:15 pm.

Penny and I walked to Q&Q, which was  in the El Poble Sec area, about a 40 minute walk from our hotel. This was the day of the La Merce Festival and many other eateries were closed. We wisely arrived at Quimet & Quimet to be first in when it opened.

Chef Jose Chesa take our orders at Quimet & Quimet
Chef Jose Chesa take our orders at Quimet & Quimet

Q&Q is a tiny tapas bar (as is typical for a tapas bar).  It often makes top 10 lists for tapas bars in Barcelona. There are a small number of cafe tables to stand at to eat. They specialize in montadito, little open-faced sandwiches with amazing toppings, many of which use their own conservas – preserved or pickled items. My liver was going to have a lot of work to do to process all of this. They are a wine shop that specializes in vermut, different types of vermouth.

What makes this Portland Food Adventure international great is that our Chef Jose Chesa of Portland’s Ataula, a native of Barcelona, was able to order for us. That took away the intimidation factor and also ensured we got a variety of items. Left to myself, I certainly wouldn’t have ordered some of the more esoteric but delightful ones. Also, we shared plates so we could enjoy a small bite of each rather than having to just try one or two.

Here are the amazing montaditos we enjoyed:

Quimet & Quimet - white asparagus with salmon
Quimet & Quimet – white asparagus with salmon
Quimet & Quimet - foie pate with black salt
Quimet & Quimet – foie pate with black salt
Quimet & Quimet - tuna belly, red pepper
Quimet & Quimet – tuna belly, red pepper
Quimet & Quimet - Salmon, cream cheese, truffles
Quimet & Quimet – Salmon, cream cheese, truffles
Quimet & Quimet - Caviar and cheese
Quimet & Quimet – Caviar and cheese
Quimet & Quimet - Sardine and sea urchin
Quimet & Quimet – Sardine and sea urchin
Quimet & Quimet - Anchovy, red pepper, olive
Quimet & Quimet – Anchovy, red pepper, olive

I made my way back to the hotel and enjoyed some of the street muscians playing. Plus, the rooftop bar of the hotel had a lovely view out over the city and comfy seating.

View from Hotel H1 in Barcelona
View from Hotel H1 in Barcelona
Street musicians in Barcelona
Street musicians in Barcelona

Our dinner would also be tapas, and rather than split into two groups we were able to get seating for all of us in one go, although a few had to sit at a separate bar.

Lolita Taperia
Lolita Taperia

Lolita Taperia is in the upscale L’Eixample district. Owner Joan Martínez transformed a classic bar into a fun and trendy place. Several of the tapas and plates are plays on American fast food, such as hamburgers, chicken fingers and ribs.

Again, we were saved by Chef Jose Chesa ordering for us.  If I had come here on my own, I wouldn’t have enjoyed the variety of dishes.

Lolita Taperia Group
Lolita Taperia Group
Lolita - house-cured pork shoulder and soda bread
Lolita – house-cured pork shoulder and soda bread

Chef Jose laments that he can’t get the same flour in the US to make the soda bread. I have to admit that while I like the bread, I want some garlic salt added to the tomato topping. Sacrilege, I know, but next time I go to Spain, I’m taking some with me.

Lolita - salt cod with tomato
Lolita – salt cod with tomato
Lolita - tuna escabeche
Lolita – tuna escabeche

This tuna escabeche was fantastic, and I also loved drinking up the broth from the mussels, which had a peppery punch to it that wasn’t typical for Spain.

Lolita - Mussels
Lolita – Mussels
Lolita - fresh anchovies, deep-fried
Lolita – fresh anchovies, deep-fried

Chef Jose always ordered “little fishies” for us. I will never be a fan, but I appreciate the love others have for them.

Lolita - Eggplant with molasses
Lolita – Eggplant with molasses

The eggplant with molasses was super.

Lolita - chicken nuggets with curry mustard
Lolita – chicken nuggets with curry mustard

Not your McDonald’s variety of chicken nuggets.

Lolita - rabbit ribs with aoli
Lolita – rabbit ribs with aoli

Chef Jose said you can’t get these in the US, the rabbits aren’t the right size.

Lolita - hamburger with steak, green pepper and cheese
Lolita – hamburger with steak, green pepper and cheese

The bun needed some work, it crumbled. But the steak sandwich was super.

Lolita - borracho rum cake and mango with lime and honey
Lolita – borracho rum cake and mango with lime and honey

I longingly hoped my dining companions would be too full and leave me an extra one of these.

Dinner lasted from 7 until 9:30 pm, so we were able to leave before the real Barcelona diners were ready for dinner. It was a nice walk back to the hotel. Many of our group then went out dancing, but I had a scary bout of almost fainting at Q&Q earlier in the day and I thought it wise to go to bed.

Next: Day 3 trip to Michelin-starred Can Jubany

Suculent – Day 1 PFA International Barcelona

Our first official day of the Portland Food Adventures International Barcelona tour was Wednesday, Sept. 23, 2015. We first met up as a full group at the garden bar of our hotel, H1 Urquinaona Plaza and had a drink and introductions.
(Previous: Arrival and pre-day in Barcelona)

Most of us had met at previous pre-PFA functions, which included a recruitment tapas afternoon at Jose’s restaurant, Ataula and another pre-tour dinner at Lardo.  We had printed notebooks provided which listed our destinations and times each day, including a map and metro stops. We could walk to the restaurant as a group or take the metro or cab.

Suculent Casa de Menjars
Suculent Casa de Menjars

Our destination for the first night was Suculent Casa de Menjars, in the El Raval district of the old city. We strolled down Las Ramblas and over to Suculent. They needed a little extra time to prepare the upstairs room for our group and we cooled our heels at tables in the plaza nearby. Chef Jose grabbed a notepad and took our drink orders and had them filled by a nearby bar. We had a merry time waiting for our table.

Chef Jose Chesa gets our drink orders
Chef Jose Chesa gets our drink orders

Once inside, we went on a jaunt through and up and around to a private room up under the rafters. This was a fun way to have the space to ourselves for dinner. The wine flowed freely, both cava and red wine.

Wendy at Suculent
Wendy at Suculent

The courses started coming and seemingly never stopped. In general we each got a tapa-sized portion of each, just a couple of bites.

Suculent serves contemporary Catalan tavern-style food. It is elevated by chef, Carlos Abellan, who worked at El Bulli for 15 years.  His  Comerç 24 in the El Born area of the old city has a Michelin star. The focus was, as typical, on the freshest ingredients. A few modernist touches went into the preparation.

Suculent - Cod fish on cracker with sweet olive tapenade
Suculent – Cod fish on cracker with sweet olive tapenade

Cod fish on cracker with sweet olive tapenade

Suculent - Oxtail and mushroom croquette
Suculent – Oxtail and mushroom croquette

Oxtail and mushroom croquette – this was one of my favorite bites.

Suculent - Pickled mackerel
Suculent – Pickled mackerel

Pickled mackerel

Suculent - Red shrimp with avocado
Suculent – Red shrimp with avocado

Red shrimp with avocado

Suculent - Tomato - tongue- tuna - almonds
Suculent – Tomato – tongue- tuna – almonds

Tomato – tongue- tuna -almonds

Suculent - Smoked sardines, ajo blanco, trout roe
Suculent – Smoked sardines, ajo blanco, trout roe

Smoked sardines, ajo blanco, trout roe

Suculent - Beef tongue lettuce wrap
Suculent – Beef tongue lettuce wrap
Suculent - Red tuna steak with pine nut sauce
Suculent – Red tuna steak with pine nut sauce
Suculent - Eel and red pepper
Suculent – Eel and red pepper
Suculent -  Pulpo with garbanzos
Suculent – Pulpo with garbanzos

This octopus and garbanzos combo reminded me of a dish we had for breakfast at BarCentral.

Suculent - Calf's Tail
Suculent – Calf’s Tail

By now, we were quite ready for the desserts.

Suculent - Portland Food Adventure Group
Suculent – Portland Food Adventure Group
Suculent - Figs
Suculent – Figs
Suculent - cheesecake muscatel with lime
Suculent – cheesecake muscatel with lime
Suculent - Dessert
Suculent – Dessert

Dinner started around 7:30 pm and lasted until 11 pm.  We needed the 35 minute walk back to the hotel wear off some of the food and wine.  Taxis were readily available for those who wanted to ride back.

Next: Tapas on Day 2 for lunch and dinner